in the souq of damascus

i enter the famous maze of damascus souq through a row of stalls selling hardware. metal chains, lether straps, rope... this must be the bondage souq. better not linger for too long! out into the hot streets surrounding the citatel and the walls of this oldest city of mankind. past the ecological gardens - syria is trying to catch up with the environmentally correct west... but no, the water is still poured into the streets for cooling as if the barada river was still a mighty stream and not a dry, dirty bed.
i turn left and am in the middle of el-hamidiyeh. the huge arched roof covering the long main street is punctured by bullet holes from the french war. the holes now add to ventilation and light up the dust in the air. the rows of shops are endless. what do i want to buy? damast, isn't that what everyone has to buy in damascus? past stalls full of headdresses and gelabiyas. don't have use for them. a new side street - this must be the silk souq. harir harir, madam, very good quality. i want a damast table cloth. of course, i have the finest, top quality for you. aha, do you have one the size of my arm span? yes, madam. that's not silk though! no, madam, it's better, 100 percent polyester. polyester?! shukran, ma'asalaama. the next store is bound to have damast. but i'll have a shawarma first, feeling a bit peckish. yummy, and so cheap, only 25p... a car in this narrow street?! a truck! how are they ever getting anywhere without killing people or getting stuck... mmh, what's this smell? cardamom surely, rows of it, and bags of coffee, and paprika, rose petals... i'm in spice row! couldn't possibly buyanything here, but the smell is intoxicating. i'm in a different time, when things felt and smelt and tasted so much stronger, brighter, fresher... i can see a minaret at the end of this street, must be the umayyad mosque, it's such a beautiful building, majestic, the centre of the universe as it is the centre of the old souq. like an oasis of quiet, rest, you know what time it is when the muezzin calls for prayer, and that's all that matters. is there a word for stress in arabic?... i must be in the gold souq now, going by all the jeweller's in this street. most shops here are closed, it's sunday today and the gold shopkeepers are mostly christian... i couldn't afford real gold anyway, not even in damascus. silver, maybe, that's as cheap as copper at the moment. aha - the perfume oil souq is open. damascus rose... a fresh, exotic scent like 1001 nights. or 1001 women in the harem. i have to have damascus rose. some essential oil please. try this, madam, jasmine... mmh, very strong. or white musk, madam? shukran, just the rose oil please. what's this sound? a bird? oh yes, a nightingale in a cage above the shop! poor bird... but back to business. 150 syrian pounds for a small bottle please, madam. do you have rose water? yes, one bottle? one bottle, and the perfume oil. i'll give you 200 for both. 200? madam, that's not enough, all good quality oil. i know, so you get 200 for both and that's my last offer. ok, madam, for you, 200. shukran. afwan. have a good day, welcome to syria...