Wednesday, June 14, 2006

yalla bye!

london has me back.
i left amman behind this morning, it was promising to be another good, hot and sunny day. but how could i live without the london clouds?

before i left israel, i did see the catchment area of a man called jesus, who lived in galilee some 2,000 years ago. i was credibly presented the cave in nazareth where jesus grew up and spent most of his life as a normal bloke, before he started to perform miracles. wonderful to bathe my feet in the sea of galilee! i even saw the river jordan (or what's left of it after the numerous dams upstream) and, dear readers, i stood in it! to this day, people go on a pilgrimage to the river jordan to get baptised or to renew their baptismal vows, or to take pictures. the jordan seems a lot cleaner than the euphrates, where i dipped my toe in 3 weeks earlier. in case you were wondering - i could walk neither on the sea nor on the river, which was quite a disappointment.

my taxi driver took me to the jordanian border on tuesday morning, via the west bank and the ruins of jericho. the little detour was unplanned, not without its dangers, but well worth it. then the shock - 140 shekels *exit fee* at the border! i was informed by the helpful israeli customs officer that the sheikh hussein bridge 30 mins north would be half price. maybe next time...

i did catch up with my friend nasser of the jordanian tourist police! he proudly presented me his promotion to lieutenant, invited me for a coffee, also invited me to stay with his family next time i'd be in jordan, and called me a taxi to amman. the jordanian tourist police is a great force!

looking back at the past month, i did of course not manage to follow in the footsteps and cameltreks of those famous women travelling the middle east - lady hester stanhope, gertrude bell, freya stark, and the naughty naughty jane digby. i was, however, inspired by their spirit for adventure, their romantic souls and their chuzpe.

give me time to unpack and i will illustrate this journal with some pics. thanks for following my holyland journey!

*to awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world.* - freya stark

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